Eine Plattform für die Wissenschaft: Bauingenieurwesen, Architektur und Urbanistik
Eine Plattform für die Wissenschaft: Bauingenieurwesen, Architektur und Urbanistik
Intertidal beach profile estimation from reflected wave measurements
Abstract The intertidal beach profile provides coastal engineers and managers with a good indication of the current state of a sandy coastline, however regular beach profile measurements are time consuming and expensive to obtain using conventional surveying methods. The potential to reconstruct the intertidal beach profile from measurements of reflected waves is tested here using three field datasets covering a different range of hydro-morphological conditions from dissipative, to reflective. The swash is found to behave as a low-pass filter on reflected waves, with a cut-off frequency that primarily depends on the swash slope. An agreement is found between video-derived swash spectrum saturation tail and the shortest reflected waves, computed from deep water directional wave measurements. By integrating this swash slope over a tidal cycle, the shape of the intertidal beach profile can be reconstructed. Our results clearly show the potential of such method to estimate complex intertidal beach profile, such as double-slope beaches.
Highlights The intertidal beach profile can be reconstructed by integrating the swash slope over a tidal cycle. The swash behaves as a low-pass filter, with a cut-off frequency that primarily depends on the swash slope. A good agreement is found between video-derived swash spectrum saturation tail and the shortest reflected waves.
Intertidal beach profile estimation from reflected wave measurements
Abstract The intertidal beach profile provides coastal engineers and managers with a good indication of the current state of a sandy coastline, however regular beach profile measurements are time consuming and expensive to obtain using conventional surveying methods. The potential to reconstruct the intertidal beach profile from measurements of reflected waves is tested here using three field datasets covering a different range of hydro-morphological conditions from dissipative, to reflective. The swash is found to behave as a low-pass filter on reflected waves, with a cut-off frequency that primarily depends on the swash slope. An agreement is found between video-derived swash spectrum saturation tail and the shortest reflected waves, computed from deep water directional wave measurements. By integrating this swash slope over a tidal cycle, the shape of the intertidal beach profile can be reconstructed. Our results clearly show the potential of such method to estimate complex intertidal beach profile, such as double-slope beaches.
Highlights The intertidal beach profile can be reconstructed by integrating the swash slope over a tidal cycle. The swash behaves as a low-pass filter, with a cut-off frequency that primarily depends on the swash slope. A good agreement is found between video-derived swash spectrum saturation tail and the shortest reflected waves.
Intertidal beach profile estimation from reflected wave measurements
Almar, Rafael (Autor:in) / Blenkinsopp, Chris (Autor:in) / Almeida, Luis Pedro (Autor:in) / Bergsma, Erwin W.J. (Autor:in) / Catalan, Patricio A. (Autor:in) / Cienfuegos, Rodrigo (Autor:in) / Viet, Nguyen Trung (Autor:in)
Coastal Engineering ; 151 ; 58-63
02.05.2019
6 pages
Aufsatz (Zeitschrift)
Elektronische Ressource
Englisch
Wave Energy Dissipation by Intertidal Sand Waves on a Mixed-Sediment Beach
| British Library Conference Proceedings | 2005
Intertidal Multiple Sand Bars on Meso-Tidal Beach
| British Library Conference Proceedings | 2007
Video-Based, Quantitative Assessment of Intertidal Beach Variability
| British Library Conference Proceedings | 2001
Automated mapping of the intertidal beach bathymetry from video images
| Elsevier | 2009
Automated mapping of the intertidal beach bathymetry from video images
| British Library Online Contents | 2010