The analysis of beach profile changes using Dean's method and empirical orthogonal functions: Fid-Bau Portal

The analysis of beach profile changes using Dean's method and empirical orthogonal functions

Pruszak, Zbigniew

AbstractSea bottom changes in the cross-shore direction have been analysed. The cross-shore profile, as a major factor of beach configuration, has been presented schematically as a superposition of a basic curve reflecting the mean layout and slope of the shore given by Dean's function $y=A·χ$ ^2
3 and superimposed various bars, troughs, berms, etc. depicting local characteristic features of the profile.The local features of the profile have been analysed by use of one- (1-D) and two-dimensional (2-D) empirical orthogonal functions.On the basis of field observations and measurements the parameter A has been presented as a function of time. Three time scales have been distinguished (short, seasonal and long-term) with respect to which more or less regular changes of the parameter A occur. The modified parameter A was applied to two different field sites, namly Lubiatowo, Baltic Sea (Poland) and Gold Beach, Black Sea (Bulgaria). It has been found that in extreme cases the parameter A can vary in time by a factor of two, or more, for the same grain size distribution.