Influence of offshore topography on the amplification of infragravity oscillations within a harbor: Fid-Bau Portal

Influence of offshore topography on the amplification of infragravity oscillations within a harbor

Gao, Junliang / Ji, Chunyan / Liu, Yingyi / Ma, Xiaojian / Gaidai, Oleg

Highlights•Boussinesq model is used to simulate infragravity period oscillations inside an elongated harbor near offshore fringing reef induced by short wave groups.•A wave analysis technique is adopted to decompose the infragravity wave components inside the harbor into bound and free infragravity standing waves.•Influences of offshore fringing reef on the bound and free infragravity standing waves inside the harbor are systematically investigated.

AbstractThe main purpose of this article is to systematically investigate the influence of offshore fringing reef topography on the infragravity-period harbor oscillations. The infragravity (IG) period oscillations inside an elongated harbor induced by normally-incident bichromatic wave groups are simulated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model, FUNWAVE 2.0. Based on an IG wave decomposition method, effects of plane reef-face slopes, reef-face profile shapes and the existence of reef ridge on bound and free IG waves and their relative components inside the harbor are comprehensively studied. For the given harbor and reef ridge, the range of the reef-face slopes and the various profile shapes studied in this paper, results show that the amplitude of the free IG waves inside the harbor increases with the increasing of the reef-face slope; while the bound IG waves inside the harbor seem insensitive to it. The effects of the profile shapes on the IG period waves inside the harbor are closely related to the width of the reef face. The existence of the reef ridge can relieve the bound IG waves to some extent when the incident short wave amplitudes are relatively large, while its effects on the free IG waves are negligible.