Morphological modeling of a nourished bayside beach with a low tide terrace: Fid-Bau Portal

Morphological modeling of a nourished bayside beach with a low tide terrace

Shi, Fengyan / Cai, Feng / Kirby, James T. / Zheng, Jixiang

Abstract We present a simple one-dimensional process-based morphological model for predicting medium–long term beach profile evolution of a bayside beach with a low tide terrace. Bayside beaches are characterized by low wave energy. In regions with a large tidal range, a beach face is slowly eroded due to erosional waves inside the surf zone which shifts along the beach profile over a wide range during a tidal cycle. The model is developed using an existing model framework proposed by Mariotti and Fagherazzi (2010), who formulated a model for sediment suspension and transport due to waves and tidal currents in a tidal flat regime. The new developments in this study include an implementation of the bedload sediment transport and modification of the suspended load transport for noncohesive particles. The model parameters were calibrated using beach profile data collected over a one-year span at Xiamen Beach. Numerical experiments indicate that waves suspend sediment in the narrow surf zone, inducing pulse-like high sediment concentration in shallow water. The suspended sediment is advected by the tidal current and wave-induced undertow, causing erosion of the steep beach face at the upper portion and deposition of the flat beach face at the lower portion of a beach profile. The erosion on the upper beach face was not predicted by a bedload-only transport model, suggesting that the sediment suspension associated wave breaking may be the major mechanism for the erosion. Tide-only induced sediment transport is insignificant, but tides play a role in distributing the wave-induced erosion over a wide region on a beach profile.

Highlights • A morphological model is developed for predicting beach profile evolution. • A nourished beach is eroded under low-energy wave and large tidal range conditions. • Beach erosion is caused by a combination of wave and tidal forcing.