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A nearshore long-term infragravity wave analysis for open harbours
Abstract This study presents a comprehensive methodology for the reanalysis, characterization and propagation of wave bound infragravity waves (1/300Hz to 1/30Hz) in the nearshore. A deep water short wave reanalysis has been modified analytically to include the energy input associated with infragravity waves (full spectrum), through the decomposition and energy balance of the radiation stress of waves in deep water. A hybrid clustering-numerical wave propagation downscaling technique was used, forced by the modified full wave spectra previously obtained, resulting in hourly series of high spatial resolution nearshore ocean waves, including short and bound long waves. The methodology has been applied to the northern coast of Spain and validated by comparing buoy and pressure gauge records in the coast, for short wave (agitation) and infragravity wave (resonance) responses in open harbours, with very satisfactory results.
Highlights We numerically model infragravity wave generation/propagation from deep water towards nearshore zone. We couple different numerical tools forced with full wave spectra (short+long waves). Harbour disturbance and resonance are validated with different measurements inside 3 harbours. We propose a new technique for hindcast infragravity time series at deep water, nearshore and inside any harbour.
A nearshore long-term infragravity wave analysis for open harbours
Abstract This study presents a comprehensive methodology for the reanalysis, characterization and propagation of wave bound infragravity waves (1/300Hz to 1/30Hz) in the nearshore. A deep water short wave reanalysis has been modified analytically to include the energy input associated with infragravity waves (full spectrum), through the decomposition and energy balance of the radiation stress of waves in deep water. A hybrid clustering-numerical wave propagation downscaling technique was used, forced by the modified full wave spectra previously obtained, resulting in hourly series of high spatial resolution nearshore ocean waves, including short and bound long waves. The methodology has been applied to the northern coast of Spain and validated by comparing buoy and pressure gauge records in the coast, for short wave (agitation) and infragravity wave (resonance) responses in open harbours, with very satisfactory results.
Highlights We numerically model infragravity wave generation/propagation from deep water towards nearshore zone. We couple different numerical tools forced with full wave spectra (short+long waves). Harbour disturbance and resonance are validated with different measurements inside 3 harbours. We propose a new technique for hindcast infragravity time series at deep water, nearshore and inside any harbour.
A nearshore long-term infragravity wave analysis for open harbours
Diaz-Hernandez, Gabriel (Autor:in) / Mendez, Fernando J. (Autor:in) / Losada, Inigo J. (Autor:in) / Camus, Paula (Autor:in) / Medina, Raul (Autor:in)
Coastal Engineering ; 97 ; 78-90
23.12.2014
13 pages
Aufsatz (Zeitschrift)
Elektronische Ressource
Englisch
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