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Based on the assumptions of inviscid and incompressible fluid, irrotational flow, and infinitesimal wave amplitude, Stokes (1846) found a solution to the water-wave problem with a uniformly sloping impermeable boundary (beach). The solution, often termed the Stokes-mode edge wave, can be written in terms of velocity potential, phi, as a certain formula where A is the amplitude of wave runup distance along the beach surface, omega is the wave angular frequency, k is the wave number in the longshore direction, beta is the beach slope from the horizontal, and the coordinates (x,y,z) point to the alongshore, offshore, and vertically upward directions, respectively. Equation (1) indicates that the edge waves propagate parallel to the shoreline, y=0, and decays exponentially offshore with an e-folding distance of (K cos b) to the -1 power.
Based on the assumptions of inviscid and incompressible fluid, irrotational flow, and infinitesimal wave amplitude, Stokes (1846) found a solution to the water-wave problem with a uniformly sloping impermeable boundary (beach). The solution, often termed the Stokes-mode edge wave, can be written in terms of velocity potential, phi, as a certain formula where A is the amplitude of wave runup distance along the beach surface, omega is the wave angular frequency, k is the wave number in the longshore direction, beta is the beach slope from the horizontal, and the coordinates (x,y,z) point to the alongshore, offshore, and vertically upward directions, respectively. Equation (1) indicates that the edge waves propagate parallel to the shoreline, y=0, and decays exponentially offshore with an e-folding distance of (K cos b) to the -1 power.
Shoreline Profile of the Stokes-Mode Edge Waves
H. H. Yeh (Autor:in)
1987
8 pages
Report
Keine Angabe
Englisch
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