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Nearshore Wave Dynamics Simulated by Boussinesq Type Models

Sørensen, Ole R. / Madsen, Per A. / Schäffer, Hemming A.

This paper presents a numerical study of nearshore wave dynamics including the surf zone. Two different time-domain Boussinesq type formulations are applied for this purpose. The first model incoporates Padé [2,2] dispersion characteristics and lowest order nonlinearity. The second and more sophisticated model incorporates Padé [4,4] characteristics and higher-order nonlinearity in the dispersive terms. The models are validated on the shoaling and breaking of regular and irregular waves with and without an ambient current.

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Nearshore Wave Dynamics Simulated by Boussinesq Type Models

Sørensen, Ole R. / Madsen, Per A. / Schäffer, Hemming A.

This paper presents a numerical study of nearshore wave dynamics including the surf zone. Two different time-domain Boussinesq type formulations are applied for this purpose. The first model incoporates Padé [2,2] dispersion characteristics and lowest order nonlinearity. The second and more sophisticated model incorporates Padé [4,4] characteristics and higher-order nonlinearity in the dispersive terms. The models are validated on the shoaling and breaking of regular and irregular waves with and without an ambient current.

Nearshore Wave Dynamics Simulated by Boussinesq Type Models

Sørensen, Ole R. / Madsen, Per A. / Schäffer, Hemming A.

This paper presents a numerical study of nearshore wave dynamics including the surf zone. Two different time-domain Boussinesq type formulations are applied for this purpose. The first model incoporates Padé [2,2] dispersion characteristics and lowest order nonlinearity. The second and more sophisticated model incorporates Padé [4,4] characteristics and higher-order nonlinearity in the dispersive terms. The models are validated on the shoaling and breaking of regular and irregular waves with and without an ambient current.

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Title:

Nearshore Wave Dynamics Simulated by Boussinesq Type Models

Contributors:

Sørensen, Ole R. (author) / Madsen, Per A. (author) / Schäffer, Hemming A. (author)

Conference:

26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Published in:

Coastal Engineering 1998 ; 272-285

Publication date:

1999-04-26

ISBN:

9780784404119 , 978-0-7844-7950-6

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1061/9780784404119.019

Type of media:

Conference paper

Type of material:

Electronic Resource

Language:

English

Keywords:

Coastal processes , Nonlinear response , Breaking waves , Coastal engineering , Sediment transport , Waves , Shoaling , Boussinesq equations , Coastal structures , Nearshore , Surf zones

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