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Computation of Setup and Longshore Currents by Directional Spectral Waves

Goda, Yoshimi

Wave setup and longshore currents on planar beaches induced by directional spectral waves have been computed for beach slopes ranging from 1/100 to 1/10, waves with deepwater wave steepness from 0.005 to 0.08 and offshore incident angles from 1° to 70°. The author's random wave breaking model PEGBIS (parabolic equation with gradational breaker index for spectral waves) is employed for evaluation of wave attenuation by breaking. Empirical formulas are derived for estimation of the wave setup at the shoreline and cross-shore distribution of longshore currents. Effects of spectral shape, surface roller, and kinematic viscosity on wave setup and longshore currents are examined.

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Computation of Setup and Longshore Currents by Directional Spectral Waves

Goda, Yoshimi

Wave setup and longshore currents on planar beaches induced by directional spectral waves have been computed for beach slopes ranging from 1/100 to 1/10, waves with deepwater wave steepness from 0.005 to 0.08 and offshore incident angles from 1° to 70°. The author's random wave breaking model PEGBIS (parabolic equation with gradational breaker index for spectral waves) is employed for evaluation of wave attenuation by breaking. Empirical formulas are derived for estimation of the wave setup at the shoreline and cross-shore distribution of longshore currents. Effects of spectral shape, surface roller, and kinematic viscosity on wave setup and longshore currents are examined.

Computation of Setup and Longshore Currents by Directional Spectral Waves

Goda, Yoshimi

Wave setup and longshore currents on planar beaches induced by directional spectral waves have been computed for beach slopes ranging from 1/100 to 1/10, waves with deepwater wave steepness from 0.005 to 0.08 and offshore incident angles from 1° to 70°. The author's random wave breaking model PEGBIS (parabolic equation with gradational breaker index for spectral waves) is employed for evaluation of wave attenuation by breaking. Empirical formulas are derived for estimation of the wave setup at the shoreline and cross-shore distribution of longshore currents. Effects of spectral shape, surface roller, and kinematic viscosity on wave setup and longshore currents are examined.

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Title:

Computation of Setup and Longshore Currents by Directional Spectral Waves

Contributors:

Goda, Yoshimi (author)

Conference:

Fifth International Conference on Coastal Dynamics ; 2005 ; Barcelona, Spain

Published in:

Coastal Dynamics 2005 ; 1-13

Publication date:

2006-09-06

ISBN:

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1061/40855(214)30

Type of media:

Conference paper

Type of material:

Electronic Resource

Language:

English

Keywords:

Wave spectra , Coastal engineering , Morphology , Computation , Waves , Currents , Sediment , Hydrodynamics , Coastal structures , Surf zones

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