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Nonlinear Interaction of Nearshore Morphology
An idealized cross-shore transport model was used to investigate the interaction between equilibrium beach profiles and bathymetric perturbations that were triggered by an infinitesimally small change in the incident wave height. A low tide terrace shape characterized the computed equilibrium profiles. This shape resulted from the assumed, nonlinear dependence of the equilibrium slope on the equilibrium value of the relative wave height (the latter was defined as the ratio of the rms wave height and water depth). We found that a small modification of the incident wave conditions resulted in the formation of bar-like perturbations on the equilibrium profile's terrace edge. Strong transport gradients associated with changes in the location of initial wave breaking caused the localization of the bar-like perturbations. This analysis did not resolve the potential for the bar-like perturbations to grow as free instabilities.
Nonlinear Interaction of Nearshore Morphology
An idealized cross-shore transport model was used to investigate the interaction between equilibrium beach profiles and bathymetric perturbations that were triggered by an infinitesimally small change in the incident wave height. A low tide terrace shape characterized the computed equilibrium profiles. This shape resulted from the assumed, nonlinear dependence of the equilibrium slope on the equilibrium value of the relative wave height (the latter was defined as the ratio of the rms wave height and water depth). We found that a small modification of the incident wave conditions resulted in the formation of bar-like perturbations on the equilibrium profile's terrace edge. Strong transport gradients associated with changes in the location of initial wave breaking caused the localization of the bar-like perturbations. This analysis did not resolve the potential for the bar-like perturbations to grow as free instabilities.
Nonlinear Interaction of Nearshore Morphology
Plant, Nathaniel G. (author) / Hulscher, Suzanne J. M. H. (author)
27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE) ; 2000 ; Sydney, Australia
Coastal Engineering 2000 ; 2624-2633
2001-03-23
Conference paper
Electronic Resource
English
Nonlinear Interaction of Nearshore Morphology
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