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Morphological Evolution behind a Detached Shore-Parallel Breakwater
This article presents how it is possible to numerically model the morphological evolution of a sandy beach in the presence of a detached shore-parallel breakwater. Seasonal variations (with weak and heavy swells) are reproduced and the annual evolution is compared with the one observed on a physical model. Thus six geometrical shapes of breakwater are studied. Three lengths from 100 to 200 m and two distances from the shoreline 150 and 200 m. The initial beach has an uniform slope of 1.4%. It represents a breakwater which can be found in the mediterranean sea, thus without tides. The wave comes at right angles to the breakwater. The wave climate is composed of 8 incident wave conditions. Three specific modules for wave, current and sediment transport are coupled and constitute our morphodynamic modeling system. For one calculation cycle, the first module solves the mild-slope equation (Berkhoff), the radiation stress are introduced in the second module to calculate the currents, and then the bed evolution is determined with the third module using the Bijker transport law. At the end of one cycle, the bathymetry is updated for the wave and current modules, then another cycle begins until the end of the physical model action duration. As a half breakwater is used, only multi-period waves are considered (no multi-directional). The Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum is introduced as the incident wave.
Morphological Evolution behind a Detached Shore-Parallel Breakwater
This article presents how it is possible to numerically model the morphological evolution of a sandy beach in the presence of a detached shore-parallel breakwater. Seasonal variations (with weak and heavy swells) are reproduced and the annual evolution is compared with the one observed on a physical model. Thus six geometrical shapes of breakwater are studied. Three lengths from 100 to 200 m and two distances from the shoreline 150 and 200 m. The initial beach has an uniform slope of 1.4%. It represents a breakwater which can be found in the mediterranean sea, thus without tides. The wave comes at right angles to the breakwater. The wave climate is composed of 8 incident wave conditions. Three specific modules for wave, current and sediment transport are coupled and constitute our morphodynamic modeling system. For one calculation cycle, the first module solves the mild-slope equation (Berkhoff), the radiation stress are introduced in the second module to calculate the currents, and then the bed evolution is determined with the third module using the Bijker transport law. At the end of one cycle, the bathymetry is updated for the wave and current modules, then another cycle begins until the end of the physical model action duration. As a half breakwater is used, only multi-period waves are considered (no multi-directional). The Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum is introduced as the incident wave.
Morphological Evolution behind a Detached Shore-Parallel Breakwater
Debaillon, Pierre (author) / Sergent, Philippe (author) / Zhang, Bainian (author)
Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics ; 2001 ; Lund, Sweden
Coastal Dynamics '01 ; 46-54
2001-05-18
Conference paper
Electronic Resource
English
Morphological Evolution Behind a Detached Shore-Parallel Breakwater
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