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Equilibrium Beach Profile for Refraction-Diffraction Areas
A formulation to determine the equilibrium beach profile for refraction-diffraction areas is proposed. An analytical expression for the wave energy flux for refraction-diffraction areas is derived from the "mild slope equation". Assuming uniform wave energy dissipation per unit water volume, it is established that the total shape parameter for the equilibrium beach profile for refraction-diffraction areas is composed of a sediment grain size shape parameter (Dean's parameter) and a refraction-diffraction shape parameter (ref-dif shape parameter). An expression to calculate this latter parameter is determined analytically and empirically based on field data. The proposed formulation is used for beaches where the sediment grain size is uniform alongshore and for beaches where the sediment grain size is not uniform alongshore, being observed two different behaviours.
Equilibrium Beach Profile for Refraction-Diffraction Areas
A formulation to determine the equilibrium beach profile for refraction-diffraction areas is proposed. An analytical expression for the wave energy flux for refraction-diffraction areas is derived from the "mild slope equation". Assuming uniform wave energy dissipation per unit water volume, it is established that the total shape parameter for the equilibrium beach profile for refraction-diffraction areas is composed of a sediment grain size shape parameter (Dean's parameter) and a refraction-diffraction shape parameter (ref-dif shape parameter). An expression to calculate this latter parameter is determined analytically and empirically based on field data. The proposed formulation is used for beaches where the sediment grain size is uniform alongshore and for beaches where the sediment grain size is not uniform alongshore, being observed two different behaviours.
Equilibrium Beach Profile for Refraction-Diffraction Areas
Requejo, Soledad (author) / Medina, Raúl (author) / González, Mauricio (author)
Fifth International Conference on Coastal Dynamics ; 2005 ; Barcelona, Spain
Coastal Dynamics 2005 ; 1-13
2006-09-06
Conference paper
Electronic Resource
English
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