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Wave Reflection Analysis at a Barred Beach
Cross-shore variation of relevant wave characteristics at a barred beach are estimated through the separation of the wave field in incident and reflected components. Regular and irregular surface elevation data from a large-scale experiment are considered. The analysis shows that the reflection coefficient at a barred beach greatly depends on the wave period. Discussion of the spatial distribution of the net wave energy flux seaward and landward of the breaking point is carried out. Dissipation at surf zone per unit horizontal area is determined showing a strong influence of the wave height at breaking. This paper also highlights the limitations of using linear wave separation methods.
Wave Reflection Analysis at a Barred Beach
Cross-shore variation of relevant wave characteristics at a barred beach are estimated through the separation of the wave field in incident and reflected components. Regular and irregular surface elevation data from a large-scale experiment are considered. The analysis shows that the reflection coefficient at a barred beach greatly depends on the wave period. Discussion of the spatial distribution of the net wave energy flux seaward and landward of the breaking point is carried out. Dissipation at surf zone per unit horizontal area is determined showing a strong influence of the wave height at breaking. This paper also highlights the limitations of using linear wave separation methods.
Wave Reflection Analysis at a Barred Beach
Tomasicchio, Giuseppe R. (author) / Neves, Maria da Graça (author) / Sancho, Francisco (author)
Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics ; 2001 ; Lund, Sweden
Coastal Dynamics '01 ; 72-81
2001-05-18
Conference paper
Electronic Resource
English
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