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A Simple Method for Evaluating Undertow Velocity Distributions over Arbitrary Beach Forms
A new method is proposed for evaluating the cross-sectional distributions of the undertow (return flow) velocity in a surf zone over arbitrary bottom-forms in a fairly simple manner. It is based on an energy budget concept, a surface roller model and a Boussinesq-type wave equation set including a breaker-induced momentum diffusion term. Validity and applicability of this method for various wave and beach conditions are examined by comparing computed undertow velocity distributions with laboratory measurements.
A Simple Method for Evaluating Undertow Velocity Distributions over Arbitrary Beach Forms
A new method is proposed for evaluating the cross-sectional distributions of the undertow (return flow) velocity in a surf zone over arbitrary bottom-forms in a fairly simple manner. It is based on an energy budget concept, a surface roller model and a Boussinesq-type wave equation set including a breaker-induced momentum diffusion term. Validity and applicability of this method for various wave and beach conditions are examined by comparing computed undertow velocity distributions with laboratory measurements.
A Simple Method for Evaluating Undertow Velocity Distributions over Arbitrary Beach Forms
Aoike, Daisuke (author) / Watanabe, Akira (author) / Isobe, Masahiko (author)
27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE) ; 2000 ; Sydney, Australia
Coastal Engineering 2000 ; 1282-1292
2001-03-23
Conference paper
Electronic Resource
English
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