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Orbital kinematics of breaking ocean waves on steep coasts
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6673-8273
The present article summarizes a concise evaluation of the elliptical theory for ocean waves published by the author in 2019, which includes the description of the principle of exponentially reduced reflection (ERR). The investigation is focused on the theory of the complex reflection coefficient (CRC) Γ= 〖Cr e〗^i∆φ including wave height ratios Cr = Hr/Hi ≤ 1 and phase differences between incident and reflected waves according to ∆ = 180ᵒ- 2α where the angle α corresponds to the angle of inclination of the reflection structure. In comparison to the linear theory according to Airy-Laplace and supplementary higher order theories this approach permits a more specific analysis of reflection structures with inclination angles α in the range of 0⁰ to 90⁰ and moreover also in accordance with the condition of continuity. The incident wave from deep water is defined by the reference wave height Ho and a given wave period T. At low reflection angles in the range of less than α ≈ 30⁰ the height of the resulting partial negative Clapotis remains in the range of heights smaller than Ho whereas in the case of positive reflections with larger inclinations the corresponding range of heights are larger than Ho. The maximum height value of 2Ho is identical to the water level deflections of the positive Clapotis at a vertical wall.
Orbital kinematics of breaking ocean waves on steep coasts
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6673-8273
The present article summarizes a concise evaluation of the elliptical theory for ocean waves published by the author in 2019, which includes the description of the principle of exponentially reduced reflection (ERR). The investigation is focused on the theory of the complex reflection coefficient (CRC) Γ= 〖Cr e〗^i∆φ including wave height ratios Cr = Hr/Hi ≤ 1 and phase differences between incident and reflected waves according to ∆ = 180ᵒ- 2α where the angle α corresponds to the angle of inclination of the reflection structure. In comparison to the linear theory according to Airy-Laplace and supplementary higher order theories this approach permits a more specific analysis of reflection structures with inclination angles α in the range of 0⁰ to 90⁰ and moreover also in accordance with the condition of continuity. The incident wave from deep water is defined by the reference wave height Ho and a given wave period T. At low reflection angles in the range of less than α ≈ 30⁰ the height of the resulting partial negative Clapotis remains in the range of heights smaller than Ho whereas in the case of positive reflections with larger inclinations the corresponding range of heights are larger than Ho. The maximum height value of 2Ho is identical to the water level deflections of the positive Clapotis at a vertical wall.
Orbital kinematics of breaking ocean waves on steep coasts
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6673-8273
The present article summarizes a concise evaluation of the elliptical theory for ocean waves published by the author in 2019, which includes the description of the principle of exponentially reduced reflection (ERR). The investigation is focused on the theory of the complex reflection coefficient (CRC) Γ= 〖Cr e〗^i∆φ including wave height ratios Cr = Hr/Hi ≤ 1 and phase differences between incident and reflected waves according to ∆ = 180ᵒ- 2α where the angle α corresponds to the angle of inclination of the reflection structure. In comparison to the linear theory according to Airy-Laplace and supplementary higher order theories this approach permits a more specific analysis of reflection structures with inclination angles α in the range of 0⁰ to 90⁰ and moreover also in accordance with the condition of continuity. The incident wave from deep water is defined by the reference wave height Ho and a given wave period T. At low reflection angles in the range of less than α ≈ 30⁰ the height of the resulting partial negative Clapotis remains in the range of heights smaller than Ho whereas in the case of positive reflections with larger inclinations the corresponding range of heights are larger than Ho. The maximum height value of 2Ho is identical to the water level deflections of the positive Clapotis at a vertical wall.
Orbital kinematics of breaking ocean waves on steep coasts
Orbitalkinematik brechender Meereswellen an steilen Küsten
Anleitung zur Abschätzung der Orbitalparameter von Wellen an steilen Küstenformationen.
Büsching, Fritz (author) / Universitätsbibliothek Braunschweig (host institution)
2024
Miscellaneous
Electronic Resource
English
complex reflection coefficient , Seegrundneigung , seabed slope , Vibration interference in water waves , Sebastian Steudtner , Forte de Sao Miguel Arcanjo , komplexer Reflexionskoeffizient , Orbitalkinematik von Wasserwellen , partielle Clapotis , Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo , Schwingungsinterferenzen in Wasserwellen , orbital kinematics of water waves , partial Clapotis
DDC:
627
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