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Mesures et modélisations des évolutions du niveau marin, des vagues, des tempêtes et des évolutions des littoraux pour une gestion durable des littoraux
This paper is a synthesis of some results obtained by our research team and showing recent advances in measurements and numerical modeling of sea level variations, wave climate, storm surges and their consequences on the morphology and stratigraphy of sedimentary coasts. Sea level measurements, obtained from satellite altimeters and tide gauges, are complementary. They allow to estimate the global mean sea level rise (+1,7 mm per year for the last century) and local relative sea level rise which can deviate from the mean value (+10 mm per year in some areas of the Gulf of Mexico). Long-term (60 years) wave climate variability is investigated by means of numerical modeling. Linear trend analysis over the studied period shows a significant increase of winter-mean wave height (up to 0.7 m in 60 years) at northern latitude (north of 45° north). Such long-term changes must be taken into account for coastline evolutions. Storm surges are major forcing events for coastal marine inundations and erosions. Numerical modeling allows understanding the physical processes responsible for those local and rapid sea level elevations. Storm surges modeling on the Charente-Maritime coast has allowed to quantify the respective contributions of coupling between wind, waves and bottom friction. Storm surge modeling improvement is in progress by using accurate topographic data and parallel numerical simulations. For long-term periods (centuries to millennia) morphological evolutions and high sedimentation rate of sedimentary coasts can be used to reconstitute past environment changes. Coastal sediments record sea level variations, climate changes (in terms of wave climate and river discharges) and human activities. An example of sediment record of the wave climate for the last decades and centuries is given by the Arçay sand spit. Comparison between stratigraphic records of modern estuaries and lagoons in France, allow unraveling the controlling factors of their evolutions. Sea level variations, hydrodynamic parameters (wave and tides) and morphology of the bedrock (in the case of sediment-starved coasts) are the main controlling parameters of estuaries and lagoons. When Sea level variations are moderate, evolutions of estuaries and lagoons area controlled by climate changes and humans activities for the most recent periods.
Mesures et modélisations des évolutions du niveau marin, des vagues, des tempêtes et des évolutions des littoraux pour une gestion durable des littoraux
This paper is a synthesis of some results obtained by our research team and showing recent advances in measurements and numerical modeling of sea level variations, wave climate, storm surges and their consequences on the morphology and stratigraphy of sedimentary coasts. Sea level measurements, obtained from satellite altimeters and tide gauges, are complementary. They allow to estimate the global mean sea level rise (+1,7 mm per year for the last century) and local relative sea level rise which can deviate from the mean value (+10 mm per year in some areas of the Gulf of Mexico). Long-term (60 years) wave climate variability is investigated by means of numerical modeling. Linear trend analysis over the studied period shows a significant increase of winter-mean wave height (up to 0.7 m in 60 years) at northern latitude (north of 45° north). Such long-term changes must be taken into account for coastline evolutions. Storm surges are major forcing events for coastal marine inundations and erosions. Numerical modeling allows understanding the physical processes responsible for those local and rapid sea level elevations. Storm surges modeling on the Charente-Maritime coast has allowed to quantify the respective contributions of coupling between wind, waves and bottom friction. Storm surge modeling improvement is in progress by using accurate topographic data and parallel numerical simulations. For long-term periods (centuries to millennia) morphological evolutions and high sedimentation rate of sedimentary coasts can be used to reconstitute past environment changes. Coastal sediments record sea level variations, climate changes (in terms of wave climate and river discharges) and human activities. An example of sediment record of the wave climate for the last decades and centuries is given by the Arçay sand spit. Comparison between stratigraphic records of modern estuaries and lagoons in France, allow unraveling the controlling factors of their evolutions. Sea level variations, hydrodynamic parameters (wave and tides) and morphology of the bedrock (in the case of sediment-starved coasts) are the main controlling parameters of estuaries and lagoons. When Sea level variations are moderate, evolutions of estuaries and lagoons area controlled by climate changes and humans activities for the most recent periods.
Mesures et modélisations des évolutions du niveau marin, des vagues, des tempêtes et des évolutions des littoraux pour une gestion durable des littoraux
Eric Chaumillon (author) / Guy Wöppelmann (author) / Mikhail Karpytchev (author) / Xavier Bertin (author)
2011
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
Unknown
estuary , Sea level , storm , coastal dynamic , waves , lagoons , Environmental sciences , GE1-350
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