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Runup recipe for periodic waves on uniformly sloping beaches

Van Dorn, W.G.

Shoaling enhancement of small-amplitude, dispersive wave trains traveling over uniform, impermeable slopes was observed in specially-constructed wave channel, where reproducible wave elevation measurement accuracy was about 0.0005-in.; these observations substantially support enhancement predicted from linear theory (conservation of energy flux) except in very shallow water and on very steep slopes, where accelerative effects become important; nomograph chart is included, from which runup predictions can be easily made, given only wave height, period, and water depth at wave length or so from shore, and beach slope.

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Runup recipe for periodic waves on uniformly sloping beaches

Van Dorn, W.G.

Shoaling enhancement of small-amplitude, dispersive wave trains traveling over uniform, impermeable slopes was observed in specially-constructed wave channel, where reproducible wave elevation measurement accuracy was about 0.0005-in.; these observations substantially support enhancement predicted from linear theory (conservation of energy flux) except in very shallow water and on very steep slopes, where accelerative effects become important; nomograph chart is included, from which runup predictions can be easily made, given only wave height, period, and water depth at wave length or so from shore, and beach slope.

Runup recipe for periodic waves on uniformly sloping beaches

Van Dorn, W.G.

Shoaling enhancement of small-amplitude, dispersive wave trains traveling over uniform, impermeable slopes was observed in specially-constructed wave channel, where reproducible wave elevation measurement accuracy was about 0.0005-in.; these observations substantially support enhancement predicted from linear theory (conservation of energy flux) except in very shallow water and on very steep slopes, where accelerative effects become important; nomograph chart is included, from which runup predictions can be easily made, given only wave height, period, and water depth at wave length or so from shore, and beach slope.

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Title:

Runup recipe for periodic waves on uniformly sloping beaches

Additional title:

Conf Coastal Eng

Contributors:

Van Dorn, W.G. (author)

Conference:

Proceedings of 10th Conference on Coastal Engineering ; 1966 ; Japan , Tokyo

Published in:

Conference on Coastal Engineering ; 1

Publication date:

1966

Size:

15 pages

Type of media:

Conference paper

Type of material:

Print

Language:

English

Keywords:

© Metadata Copyright Elsevier B. V. All rights reserved.

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