Boundary layer approach in the modeling of breaking solitary wave runup: Fid-Bau Portal

Boundary layer approach in the modeling of breaking solitary wave runup

Adityawan, Mohammad Bagus / Tanaka, Hitoshi / Lin, Pengzhi

Abstract The boundary layer is very important in the relation between wave motion and bed stress, such as sediment transport. It is a known fact that bed stress behavior is highly influenced by the boundary layer beneath the waves. Specifically, the boundary layer underneath wave runup is difficult to assess and thus, it has not yet been widely discussed, although its importance is significant. In this study, the shallow water equation (SWE) prediction of wave motion is improved by being coupled with the k–ω model, as opposed to the conventional empirical method, to approximate bed stress. Subsequently, the First Order Center Scheme and Monotonic Upstream Scheme of Conservation Laws (FORCE MUSCL), which is a finite volume shock-capturing scheme, is applied to extend the SWE range for breaking wave simulation. The proposed simultaneous coupling method (SCM) assumes the depth-averaged velocity from the SWE is equivalent to free stream velocity. In turn, free stream velocity is used to calculate a pressure gradient, which is then used by the k–ω model to approximate bed stress. Finally, this approximation is applied to the momentum equation in the SWE. Two experimental cases will be used to verify the SCM by comparing runup height, surface fluctuation, bed stress, and turbulent intensity values. The SCM shows good comparison to experimental data for all before-mentioned parameters. Further analysis shows that the wave Reynolds number increases as the wave propagates and that the turbulence behavior in the boundary layer gradually changes, such as the increase of turbulent intensity.

Highlights ► Enhancing shallow water equation by replacing commonly used Manning with boundary layer approach for bed stress estimation. ► Breaking wave modeling by FORCE MUSCL shock-capturing scheme. ► Good performance, verified with the experimental data. ► Capable of assessing boundary layer under breaking solitary wave runup. ► The wave Reynolds number increases as the wave propagates to shallower area, along with changes in the turbulence behaviors.