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A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches

Janssen, T.T. / Battjes, J.A.

AbstractThis paper revisits the derivation of the parametric surf zone model proposed by Baldock et al. [Baldock, T. E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S. & Van Weert, P. 1998 Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coast. Eng. 34, 173–196.]. We show that a consistent use of the proposed Rayleigh distribution for surf zone wave heights results in modification of the expressions for the bulk dissipation rate and enhanced dissipation levels on steep beaches and over-saturated surf zone conditions. As a consequence, the modification proposed herein renders the model robust even on steep beaches where it could otherwise develop a shoreline singularity.

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A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches

Janssen, T.T. / Battjes, J.A.

AbstractThis paper revisits the derivation of the parametric surf zone model proposed by Baldock et al. [Baldock, T. E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S. & Van Weert, P. 1998 Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coast. Eng. 34, 173–196.]. We show that a consistent use of the proposed Rayleigh distribution for surf zone wave heights results in modification of the expressions for the bulk dissipation rate and enhanced dissipation levels on steep beaches and over-saturated surf zone conditions. As a consequence, the modification proposed herein renders the model robust even on steep beaches where it could otherwise develop a shoreline singularity.

A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches

Janssen, T.T. / Battjes, J.A.

AbstractThis paper revisits the derivation of the parametric surf zone model proposed by Baldock et al. [Baldock, T. E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S. & Van Weert, P. 1998 Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coast. Eng. 34, 173–196.]. We show that a consistent use of the proposed Rayleigh distribution for surf zone wave heights results in modification of the expressions for the bulk dissipation rate and enhanced dissipation levels on steep beaches and over-saturated surf zone conditions. As a consequence, the modification proposed herein renders the model robust even on steep beaches where it could otherwise develop a shoreline singularity.

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Title:

A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches

Contributors:

Janssen, T.T. (author) / Battjes, J.A. (author)

Published in:

Coastal Engineering ; 54 ; 711-716

Publication date:

2007-05-21

Size:

6 pages

ISSN:

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.05.006

Type of media:

Article (Journal)

Type of material:

Electronic Resource

Language:

English

Keywords:

Wave breaking , Random waves , Steep beach , Surf zone , Rayleigh distribution

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