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Abstract Investigations of surfzone currents including longshore currents, rip currents and nearshore circulations have been conducted worldwide for over sixty years. The motivation is understanding and prediction of sediment transport and coastal pollution processes. This article summarizes a recent state-of-the-art review of theory and experiments conducted since 1967 (Basco, 1982, with Volume II including over 350 annotated bibliographic entries). Emphasis is on the now generally accepted, time-averaged theory based upon radiation stress principles. The newly emerging Boussinesq-type theory, which follows the instantaneous water surface and current variations within each wave period, is also briefly considered. Both approaches assume uniform currents with depth, rely upon empirical wave breaking and surfzone energy empiricism, and suffer from a limited data base for verification. Emphasis throughout is on needed areas for further research.
Abstract Investigations of surfzone currents including longshore currents, rip currents and nearshore circulations have been conducted worldwide for over sixty years. The motivation is understanding and prediction of sediment transport and coastal pollution processes. This article summarizes a recent state-of-the-art review of theory and experiments conducted since 1967 (Basco, 1982, with Volume II including over 350 annotated bibliographic entries). Emphasis is on the now generally accepted, time-averaged theory based upon radiation stress principles. The newly emerging Boussinesq-type theory, which follows the instantaneous water surface and current variations within each wave period, is also briefly considered. Both approaches assume uniform currents with depth, rely upon empirical wave breaking and surfzone energy empiricism, and suffer from a limited data base for verification. Emphasis throughout is on needed areas for further research.
Surfzone currents
Basco, David R. (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 7 ; 331-355
1983-04-27
25 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
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