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Parameterization of erosion vulnerability at coasts with multiple bars: A case study of Baltic Sea coastal segment in Poland
Abstract The paper proposes a method of detection of erosion-prone, multiple bar beaches only based on recorded bathymetric profiles, without any (frequently missing) hydrodynamic information. For this purpose a 45 km long, pristine coastal segment of the Polish coast was analyzed; the bathymetric profiles there, spaced every 500 m, were measured in 2005 and 2011 from a dune/cliff crest up to a seabed depth of about 15 m. One or two monotonic components were identified in seabed topography with signal processing tools - their shapes closely resemble theoretical upward-concave beach equilibrium profiles, reflecting intensive wave breaking in those regions. Although saturated wave energy dissipation often occurs only along a portion of those regions, the assumption of such regime allows for straightforward evaluation of the uppermost limit of wave energy dissipation capacity for each studied bathymetric profile. This problem was thoroughly examined and validated in the study. Knowing the intensity of energy dissipation in saturated regime and the length of segments where it occurs, we can calculate wave energy dissipation potential profile-by-profile. Hence, erosion prone sub-segments can be identified, where wave energy dissipation is remarkably lower than that established at neighbouring profiles. The presented methodology can be particularly recommended for dissipative beaches with multiple bars, where beach fills are often considered to mitigate coastal erosion.
Highlights Equilibrium properties (saturated wave energy dissipation) detected at beach profiles with multiple bars. Identification of multiple bar morphologies with one or two zones of saturated wave energy dissipation. Elaboration of tool, based on the proposed methodology, for identification of erosion hot spots. Timeliness of analysis in the wake of growing number of bathymetric datasets to be explored.
Parameterization of erosion vulnerability at coasts with multiple bars: A case study of Baltic Sea coastal segment in Poland
Abstract The paper proposes a method of detection of erosion-prone, multiple bar beaches only based on recorded bathymetric profiles, without any (frequently missing) hydrodynamic information. For this purpose a 45 km long, pristine coastal segment of the Polish coast was analyzed; the bathymetric profiles there, spaced every 500 m, were measured in 2005 and 2011 from a dune/cliff crest up to a seabed depth of about 15 m. One or two monotonic components were identified in seabed topography with signal processing tools - their shapes closely resemble theoretical upward-concave beach equilibrium profiles, reflecting intensive wave breaking in those regions. Although saturated wave energy dissipation often occurs only along a portion of those regions, the assumption of such regime allows for straightforward evaluation of the uppermost limit of wave energy dissipation capacity for each studied bathymetric profile. This problem was thoroughly examined and validated in the study. Knowing the intensity of energy dissipation in saturated regime and the length of segments where it occurs, we can calculate wave energy dissipation potential profile-by-profile. Hence, erosion prone sub-segments can be identified, where wave energy dissipation is remarkably lower than that established at neighbouring profiles. The presented methodology can be particularly recommended for dissipative beaches with multiple bars, where beach fills are often considered to mitigate coastal erosion.
Highlights Equilibrium properties (saturated wave energy dissipation) detected at beach profiles with multiple bars. Identification of multiple bar morphologies with one or two zones of saturated wave energy dissipation. Elaboration of tool, based on the proposed methodology, for identification of erosion hot spots. Timeliness of analysis in the wake of growing number of bathymetric datasets to be explored.
Parameterization of erosion vulnerability at coasts with multiple bars: A case study of Baltic Sea coastal segment in Poland
Różyński, Grzegorz (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 159
2020-05-02
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
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