A platform for research: civil engineering, architecture and urbanism
A platform for research: civil engineering, architecture and urbanism
AbstractWave transformation of regular waves was measured in a laboratory model of a fringing reef with a steep face and an outer reef-top slope gradually decreasing in the landward direction. Data was obtained for various wave conditions and water levels. A nonlinearity parameter, Fco = g1.25Ho0.5T2.5/hc1.75, based upon one proposed by Swart and Loubser (1979), is proposed as a suitable parameter for classifying wave transformation regimes on this reef. In particular, when Fco > 150, waves plunge on the reef edge and the amount of wave energy reaching a shore or structure is small ⩽ 16%. When Fin co ⩽ 100, waves spill on the reef-top but the greater part of their energy is transmitted over the reef-top. The maximum values of the wave height to water depth ratio on the reef-top were found to be consistent with Nelson's analyses for laboratory and field data which indicate that the maximum stable wave height to depth ratio H/d on a horizontal bottom never exceeds 0.55 for shallow water waves (Fc > 500). The experimental data confirms that the maximum value of H/d decreases when Fc decreases but that it also increases when the bottom slope increases.
AbstractWave transformation of regular waves was measured in a laboratory model of a fringing reef with a steep face and an outer reef-top slope gradually decreasing in the landward direction. Data was obtained for various wave conditions and water levels. A nonlinearity parameter, Fco = g1.25Ho0.5T2.5/hc1.75, based upon one proposed by Swart and Loubser (1979), is proposed as a suitable parameter for classifying wave transformation regimes on this reef. In particular, when Fco > 150, waves plunge on the reef edge and the amount of wave energy reaching a shore or structure is small ⩽ 16%. When Fin co ⩽ 100, waves spill on the reef-top but the greater part of their energy is transmitted over the reef-top. The maximum values of the wave height to water depth ratio on the reef-top were found to be consistent with Nelson's analyses for laboratory and field data which indicate that the maximum stable wave height to depth ratio H/d on a horizontal bottom never exceeds 0.55 for shallow water waves (Fc > 500). The experimental data confirms that the maximum value of H/d decreases when Fc decreases but that it also increases when the bottom slope increases.
Wave transformation on a coral reef
Gourlay, M.R. (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 23 ; 17-42
1993-10-05
26 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
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