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Climatic directional wave spectra in coastal sites
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8570-4263
Abstract A description of the sea wave climate through climatic directional spectra is provided in three coastal locations comparing the deep water with the corresponding shallow water pattern. Two nested spectral wave models WAVEWATCH III and SWAN are adopted to produce a 12-year hindcast dataset that is used to illustrate the method proposed to determine average directional spectra that describe the spectral wave conditions along the coast of Portugal, namely off the ports of Leixões, Lisbon, and Sines. The probability of occurrence of the spectral classes in each range of sea states is obtained and for each class, the spectral parameters, such as the significant wave height, peak period, and peak direction, is characterized. The spectral parameters and the probability of occurrence of the sea states are provided leading to the climatic directional spectra model. The differences between the climatic spectra in offshore and coastal locations are identified and discussed. The study provides long term information on the sea states, which can be used in the assessment of the operability and safety of shipping when approaching port entrances.
Highlights Climatic directional spectra are compared in deep water with the corresponding shallow water in 3 coastal locations. Two nested spectral wave models WAVEWATCH III and SWAN are adopted to produce a 12-year hindcast dataset. The probability of occurrence of the spectral classes and the average of the spectral parameters are obtained. The differences between the climatic spectra in offshore and coastal locations are identified and discussed.
Climatic directional wave spectra in coastal sites
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8570-4263
Abstract A description of the sea wave climate through climatic directional spectra is provided in three coastal locations comparing the deep water with the corresponding shallow water pattern. Two nested spectral wave models WAVEWATCH III and SWAN are adopted to produce a 12-year hindcast dataset that is used to illustrate the method proposed to determine average directional spectra that describe the spectral wave conditions along the coast of Portugal, namely off the ports of Leixões, Lisbon, and Sines. The probability of occurrence of the spectral classes in each range of sea states is obtained and for each class, the spectral parameters, such as the significant wave height, peak period, and peak direction, is characterized. The spectral parameters and the probability of occurrence of the sea states are provided leading to the climatic directional spectra model. The differences between the climatic spectra in offshore and coastal locations are identified and discussed. The study provides long term information on the sea states, which can be used in the assessment of the operability and safety of shipping when approaching port entrances.
Highlights Climatic directional spectra are compared in deep water with the corresponding shallow water in 3 coastal locations. Two nested spectral wave models WAVEWATCH III and SWAN are adopted to produce a 12-year hindcast dataset. The probability of occurrence of the spectral classes and the average of the spectral parameters are obtained. The differences between the climatic spectra in offshore and coastal locations are identified and discussed.
Climatic directional wave spectra in coastal sites
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8570-4263
Abstract A description of the sea wave climate through climatic directional spectra is provided in three coastal locations comparing the deep water with the corresponding shallow water pattern. Two nested spectral wave models WAVEWATCH III and SWAN are adopted to produce a 12-year hindcast dataset that is used to illustrate the method proposed to determine average directional spectra that describe the spectral wave conditions along the coast of Portugal, namely off the ports of Leixões, Lisbon, and Sines. The probability of occurrence of the spectral classes in each range of sea states is obtained and for each class, the spectral parameters, such as the significant wave height, peak period, and peak direction, is characterized. The spectral parameters and the probability of occurrence of the sea states are provided leading to the climatic directional spectra model. The differences between the climatic spectra in offshore and coastal locations are identified and discussed. The study provides long term information on the sea states, which can be used in the assessment of the operability and safety of shipping when approaching port entrances.
Highlights Climatic directional spectra are compared in deep water with the corresponding shallow water in 3 coastal locations. Two nested spectral wave models WAVEWATCH III and SWAN are adopted to produce a 12-year hindcast dataset. The probability of occurrence of the spectral classes and the average of the spectral parameters are obtained. The differences between the climatic spectra in offshore and coastal locations are identified and discussed.
Climatic directional wave spectra in coastal sites
Lucas, C. (author) / Silva, D. (author) / Guedes Soares, C. (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 180
2022-11-18
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
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