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Modelling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully nonlinear free-surface potential flow model
Abstract Two methods to treat wave breaking in the framework of the Hamiltonian formulation of free-surface potential flow are presented, tested, and validated. The first is an extension of Kennedy et al. (2000)’s eddy-viscosity approach originally developed for Boussinesq-type wave models. In this approach, an extra term, constructed to conserve the horizontal momentum for waves propagating over a flat bottom, is added in the dynamic free-surface condition. In the second method, a pressure distribution is introduced at the free surface that dissipates wave energy by analogy to a hydraulic jump (Guignard and Grilli, 2001). The modified Hamiltonian systems are implemented using the Hamiltonian Coupled-Mode Theory, in which the velocity potential is represented by a rapidly convergent vertical series expansion. Wave energy dissipation and conservation of horizontal momentum are verified numerically. Comparisons with experimental measurements are presented for the propagation of a breaking dispersive shock wave following a dam break, and then incident regular waves breaking on a mildly sloping beach and over a submerged bar.
Highlights Two wave breaking techniques are tested in a fully nonlinear model. Breaking is implemented by extending the Hamiltonian Coupled-Mode Theory. Energy dissipation and horizontal momentum conservation are verified numerically. Good performance is shown in the presence of nonlinearity, dispersion and breaking. Both methods can be implemented in other free-surface potential flow models.
Modelling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully nonlinear free-surface potential flow model
Abstract Two methods to treat wave breaking in the framework of the Hamiltonian formulation of free-surface potential flow are presented, tested, and validated. The first is an extension of Kennedy et al. (2000)’s eddy-viscosity approach originally developed for Boussinesq-type wave models. In this approach, an extra term, constructed to conserve the horizontal momentum for waves propagating over a flat bottom, is added in the dynamic free-surface condition. In the second method, a pressure distribution is introduced at the free surface that dissipates wave energy by analogy to a hydraulic jump (Guignard and Grilli, 2001). The modified Hamiltonian systems are implemented using the Hamiltonian Coupled-Mode Theory, in which the velocity potential is represented by a rapidly convergent vertical series expansion. Wave energy dissipation and conservation of horizontal momentum are verified numerically. Comparisons with experimental measurements are presented for the propagation of a breaking dispersive shock wave following a dam break, and then incident regular waves breaking on a mildly sloping beach and over a submerged bar.
Highlights Two wave breaking techniques are tested in a fully nonlinear model. Breaking is implemented by extending the Hamiltonian Coupled-Mode Theory. Energy dissipation and horizontal momentum conservation are verified numerically. Good performance is shown in the presence of nonlinearity, dispersion and breaking. Both methods can be implemented in other free-surface potential flow models.
Modelling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully nonlinear free-surface potential flow model
Papoutsellis, Christos E. (author) / Yates, Marissa L. (author) / Simon, Bruno (author) / Benoit, Michel (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 154
2019-10-12
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model
| Elsevier | 2013