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Cross-shore wave transformation and mean flow circulation
Abstract An analysis of wave and current evolution in shoaling and breaking waves in the cross-shore plane adopts the integral method used successfully for turbulent shear flows. The field equations are integral conservation equations for mass, momentum and energy which describe the cross-shore flow as an initial value problem. Reynolds' stress closure assumes added complexity as a result of the fluctuating wave motion. For the wave fluctuations, closure relationships consistent with the integral methodology are based on profiles of mean quantities established from steady Fourier wave theory. Within the surf zone, turbulence closure is dominated by breaking wave energy dissipation. Computations reproduce the trends of wave shoaling, set-up and undertow, and the global trends compare favorably with field and laboratory data. The various contributions to the complete balances of mass, momentum and energy are examined in detail, leading to an especially descriptive picture of the evolutionary processes in the complete nearshore zone, from deep water through the shoaling, breaker and surf zones to the beach.
Cross-shore wave transformation and mean flow circulation
Abstract An analysis of wave and current evolution in shoaling and breaking waves in the cross-shore plane adopts the integral method used successfully for turbulent shear flows. The field equations are integral conservation equations for mass, momentum and energy which describe the cross-shore flow as an initial value problem. Reynolds' stress closure assumes added complexity as a result of the fluctuating wave motion. For the wave fluctuations, closure relationships consistent with the integral methodology are based on profiles of mean quantities established from steady Fourier wave theory. Within the surf zone, turbulence closure is dominated by breaking wave energy dissipation. Computations reproduce the trends of wave shoaling, set-up and undertow, and the global trends compare favorably with field and laboratory data. The various contributions to the complete balances of mass, momentum and energy are examined in detail, leading to an especially descriptive picture of the evolutionary processes in the complete nearshore zone, from deep water through the shoaling, breaker and surf zones to the beach.
Cross-shore wave transformation and mean flow circulation
Thieke, Robert J. (author) / Sobey, Rodney J. (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 14 ; 387-415
1990-02-15
29 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
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