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Deterministic profile modelling of nearshore processes. Part 1. Waves and currents
AbstractThis is the first of two companion papers concerned with the modelling of beach profile response to wave and tidal action. The present paper concentrates on wave and current modelling, while the companion paper deals with sediment transport and beach profile development. The papers describe summaries of the relevant theory, model structure, and comparisons with laboratory and field data, including plane and barred beaches. In the present paper, wave heights, fraction of broken waves, bottom orbital velocities, longshore wave-driven currents, undertow currents and bottom wave velocity moments are compared with measured data in these tests, generally with good agreement. Due to lack of suitable data tidal effects have not been included in these comparisons. The model is at present designed for application to beach erosion during storm events lasting several days, and longer wave sequences of several months, using hydrodynamic timesteps of the order of 0.5 to 3 hours. Wave sequences covering very long timespans (several years) may require further studies of filtering of input data.
Deterministic profile modelling of nearshore processes. Part 1. Waves and currents
AbstractThis is the first of two companion papers concerned with the modelling of beach profile response to wave and tidal action. The present paper concentrates on wave and current modelling, while the companion paper deals with sediment transport and beach profile development. The papers describe summaries of the relevant theory, model structure, and comparisons with laboratory and field data, including plane and barred beaches. In the present paper, wave heights, fraction of broken waves, bottom orbital velocities, longshore wave-driven currents, undertow currents and bottom wave velocity moments are compared with measured data in these tests, generally with good agreement. Due to lack of suitable data tidal effects have not been included in these comparisons. The model is at present designed for application to beach erosion during storm events lasting several days, and longer wave sequences of several months, using hydrodynamic timesteps of the order of 0.5 to 3 hours. Wave sequences covering very long timespans (several years) may require further studies of filtering of input data.
Deterministic profile modelling of nearshore processes. Part 1. Waves and currents
Southgate, Howard N. (author) / Nairn, Robert B. (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 19 ; 27-56
1992-08-20
30 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
Deterministic profile modelling of nearshore processes. Part 1. Waves and currents
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