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Breaking waves in laboratory-generated JONSWAP seas
Abstract Results from a laboratory study of wave breaking in deep-water random seas are presented for approximate JONSWAP sea states. Waves generated at one end of a 116-meter wave tank are observed for breaking at a section of the tank approximately 30 meters from the wavemaker and in regions spanning three and six meters about the section. Emphasis is on the relative number of breaking waves observed at the section and in the regions about it, and on the relative number of crest amplitudes exceeding specified levels at the section. Measurements at the section are shown to be in good agreement with predictions formed using idealized assumptions about the breaking waves and a modified Rayleigh distribution of crest amplitudes that accounts approximately for nonlinear effects in seas with narrow-banded wave frequencies. Results indicate that the average downward crest acceleration of breaking waves in these sea states is equal approximately to one-third the acceleration of gravity. Experimental measurements of breaking in regions about the section are shown to be in good agreement with theoretical predictions relating breaking events over a region to those at a fixed location.
Breaking waves in laboratory-generated JONSWAP seas
Abstract Results from a laboratory study of wave breaking in deep-water random seas are presented for approximate JONSWAP sea states. Waves generated at one end of a 116-meter wave tank are observed for breaking at a section of the tank approximately 30 meters from the wavemaker and in regions spanning three and six meters about the section. Emphasis is on the relative number of breaking waves observed at the section and in the regions about it, and on the relative number of crest amplitudes exceeding specified levels at the section. Measurements at the section are shown to be in good agreement with predictions formed using idealized assumptions about the breaking waves and a modified Rayleigh distribution of crest amplitudes that accounts approximately for nonlinear effects in seas with narrow-banded wave frequencies. Results indicate that the average downward crest acceleration of breaking waves in these sea states is equal approximately to one-third the acceleration of gravity. Experimental measurements of breaking in regions about the section are shown to be in good agreement with theoretical predictions relating breaking events over a region to those at a fixed location.
Breaking waves in laboratory-generated JONSWAP seas
Dawson, T.H. (author) / Kriebel, D.L. (author) / Wallendorf, L.A. (author)
Applied Ocean Research ; 15 ; 85-93
1992-11-23
9 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
Breaking waves in laboratory-generated JONSWAP seas
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