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A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations
AbstractA wave propagation model, based on the Boussinesq type of equations, is proposed, valid both in the shoaling and the breaking region. By introducing a dispersion term to simulate Reynolds stresses (eddy viscosity concept), it is possible to simulate wave deformation in the surf zone, i.e. the turbulence dissipation conditions during breaking. The eddy viscosity coefficient is calculated from the numerical integration of the turbulent transport equation and the mixing length hypothesis. The production term in the proposed k-model is the dissipation of wave energy due to breaking, which is approximated by that of a propagating bore. The model is tested against well confirmed experimental data.
A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations
AbstractA wave propagation model, based on the Boussinesq type of equations, is proposed, valid both in the shoaling and the breaking region. By introducing a dispersion term to simulate Reynolds stresses (eddy viscosity concept), it is possible to simulate wave deformation in the surf zone, i.e. the turbulence dissipation conditions during breaking. The eddy viscosity coefficient is calculated from the numerical integration of the turbulent transport equation and the mixing length hypothesis. The production term in the proposed k-model is the dissipation of wave energy due to breaking, which is approximated by that of a propagating bore. The model is tested against well confirmed experimental data.
A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations
Karambas, Th.V. (author) / Koutitas, C. (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 18 ; 1-19
1992-02-13
19 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
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