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Shear stress distribution in dissipative water waves
AbstractThe exchange of energy and the mean shear stress distribution are analyzed for dissipative water waves. The cases of energy dissipation in an oscillatory bottom boundary layer and of spilling breakers or broken waves are considered. The wave motion is assumed to be described by linear shallow water wave theory. It is described how energy is extracted from the wave motion and transported to the location of dissipation. For the case of breaking waves this requires a dynamic model for the surface roller. In the case of a wave boundary layer, the energy exchange is associated with the secondary water motions caused by displacement in the boundary layer.The shear stress distribution depends on the location of the energy dissipation. In case of no dissipation or dissipation near the bed, the near surface shear stress is zero, whereas in case of dissipation near the surface, the near surface shear stress is determined from the gradient in the wave energy flux. In non-uniform waves the vertical and the horizontal orbital motion are not completely out of phase, and the organized wave motion gives a significant contribution to the vertical momentum transfer, which is important for determining the shear stress distribution.
Shear stress distribution in dissipative water waves
AbstractThe exchange of energy and the mean shear stress distribution are analyzed for dissipative water waves. The cases of energy dissipation in an oscillatory bottom boundary layer and of spilling breakers or broken waves are considered. The wave motion is assumed to be described by linear shallow water wave theory. It is described how energy is extracted from the wave motion and transported to the location of dissipation. For the case of breaking waves this requires a dynamic model for the surface roller. In the case of a wave boundary layer, the energy exchange is associated with the secondary water motions caused by displacement in the boundary layer.The shear stress distribution depends on the location of the energy dissipation. In case of no dissipation or dissipation near the bed, the near surface shear stress is zero, whereas in case of dissipation near the surface, the near surface shear stress is determined from the gradient in the wave energy flux. In non-uniform waves the vertical and the horizontal orbital motion are not completely out of phase, and the organized wave motion gives a significant contribution to the vertical momentum transfer, which is important for determining the shear stress distribution.
Shear stress distribution in dissipative water waves
Deigaard, Rolf (author) / Fredsøe, Jørgen (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 13 ; 357-378
1989-04-27
22 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
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