A platform for research: civil engineering, architecture and urbanism
A platform for research: civil engineering, architecture and urbanism
A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water
AbstractA simple description of wave breaking in shallow water is incorporated in the Boussinesq equations by using the concept of surface rollers. The roller is considered as a volume of water being carried by the wave with the wave celerity. The effect of the roller is included in the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocity, which leads to an additional convective momentum term. The breaking criterion is related to the local slope of water surface and the thickness of the roller is determined from simple geometrical considerations. Although the model is simple, it is capable of representing a variety of processes such as the initiation and cessation of wave breaking, the evolution of wave profiles before, during and after wave breaking, the initial conversion of potential energy into forward momentum flux, and the associated horizontal shift between the break point and the point where the setup in mean water level is initiated. Results are presented for regular and irregular wave trains and comparison with measurements shows good agreement.
A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water
AbstractA simple description of wave breaking in shallow water is incorporated in the Boussinesq equations by using the concept of surface rollers. The roller is considered as a volume of water being carried by the wave with the wave celerity. The effect of the roller is included in the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocity, which leads to an additional convective momentum term. The breaking criterion is related to the local slope of water surface and the thickness of the roller is determined from simple geometrical considerations. Although the model is simple, it is capable of representing a variety of processes such as the initiation and cessation of wave breaking, the evolution of wave profiles before, during and after wave breaking, the initial conversion of potential energy into forward momentum flux, and the associated horizontal shift between the break point and the point where the setup in mean water level is initiated. Results are presented for regular and irregular wave trains and comparison with measurements shows good agreement.
A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water
Schäffer, Hemming A. (author) / Madsen, Per A. (author) / Deigaard, Rolf (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 20 ; 185-202
1993-06-11
18 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water
| British Library Online Contents | 1993
A Boussinesq-type Model Incorporating Breaking Waves
| British Library Conference Proceedings | 2009
A Boussinesq Model for Breaking Waves: Comparisons with Experiments
| British Library Conference Proceedings | 1999
Boussinesq Modelling of Breaking Waves: Description of Turbulence
| British Library Conference Proceedings | 2005
Boussinesq-type model for energetic breaking waves in fringing reef environments
| Online Contents | 2012