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Wave Transformations Over a Sloping Bottom and Over a Three-Dimensional Shoal
The effect of wave height and wave breaking on wave refraction over a three-dimensional shoal is discussed. A hydraulic model was constructed to study the phenomena. The model study was conducted in two phases. First, wave transformations over a constant bottom slope propagating from intermediate water depths through the breaking zone in shallow water depths were studied. In this series of tests, the wave-height growth, decay, and phase velocities were studied. The second series of tests was conducted to ascertain the refraction patterns over a three-dimensional shoal. Measured refraction patterns and coefficients were compared with refraction patterns predicted by conventional refraction analysis techniques which use Airy wave theory.
Wave Transformations Over a Sloping Bottom and Over a Three-Dimensional Shoal
The effect of wave height and wave breaking on wave refraction over a three-dimensional shoal is discussed. A hydraulic model was constructed to study the phenomena. The model study was conducted in two phases. First, wave transformations over a constant bottom slope propagating from intermediate water depths through the breaking zone in shallow water depths were studied. In this series of tests, the wave-height growth, decay, and phase velocities were studied. The second series of tests was conducted to ascertain the refraction patterns over a three-dimensional shoal. Measured refraction patterns and coefficients were compared with refraction patterns predicted by conventional refraction analysis techniques which use Airy wave theory.
Wave Transformations Over a Sloping Bottom and Over a Three-Dimensional Shoal
J. R. Walker (author)
1974
156 pages
Report
No indication
English
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