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Nearshore beach morphology manifests a three-dimensional structure of rhythmic topography characterized by periodic longshore undulations of both the surf zone bed and the subaerial beach surface. These undulations results in longshore variations in such properties as beach slope, nearshore circulation, bar clearance, and trafficability. Changing input waves, storm passage, and littoral currents cause migration of the rhythmic topography alongshore and result in constantly changing beach characteristics which would affect nearshore operations. This paper describes typical beach changes associated with rhythmic topography. Three-dimensional beach structure is explained on the basis of evidence from world coasts; two distinctive classes of beach change are described; and mechanisms responsible for generating rhythmic topography are discussed. A model which agrees closely with field observations is presented for use in predicting the most likely beach-cycle length. (Author)
Nearshore beach morphology manifests a three-dimensional structure of rhythmic topography characterized by periodic longshore undulations of both the surf zone bed and the subaerial beach surface. These undulations results in longshore variations in such properties as beach slope, nearshore circulation, bar clearance, and trafficability. Changing input waves, storm passage, and littoral currents cause migration of the rhythmic topography alongshore and result in constantly changing beach characteristics which would affect nearshore operations. This paper describes typical beach changes associated with rhythmic topography. Three-dimensional beach structure is explained on the basis of evidence from world coasts; two distinctive classes of beach change are described; and mechanisms responsible for generating rhythmic topography are discussed. A model which agrees closely with field observations is presented for use in predicting the most likely beach-cycle length. (Author)
Three-Dimensional Beach Changes
C. J. Sonu (author)
1972
27 pages
Report
No indication
English
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