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Simultaneous measurements of run-up spectra and nearshore wave spectra associated with standing waves have been made on a natural beach. Digital wave staffs and bottom-mounted pressure sensors were placed in a line at various distances offshore from a digital run-up meter. The run-up meter, which measured the position of the edge of the water, consisted of a series of electrical contacts suspended above the beach face face and spaced 30 cm apart. Because of the possible influence of nonlinear interactions on the spectra, bicoherence was estimated, and the frequency range appropriate to a linearized model was defined. (Modified author abstract)
Simultaneous measurements of run-up spectra and nearshore wave spectra associated with standing waves have been made on a natural beach. Digital wave staffs and bottom-mounted pressure sensors were placed in a line at various distances offshore from a digital run-up meter. The run-up meter, which measured the position of the edge of the water, consisted of a series of electrical contacts suspended above the beach face face and spaced 30 cm apart. Because of the possible influence of nonlinear interactions on the spectra, bicoherence was estimated, and the frequency range appropriate to a linearized model was defined. (Modified author abstract)
Standing Waves on Beaches
J. N. Suhayda (author)
1974
10 pages
Report
No indication
English
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