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Three-Dimensional Breaking Wave Kinematics

She, K. / Greated, C. A. / Easson, W. J.

Abstract An investigation into three-dimensional waves has been carried out using Particle image velocimetry. The wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {−α, α}. The waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. Several α values between 30 and 60 degrees were tested. Angular spreading was found to have great effects on the breaking characteristics and kinematics. Two types of breakers were observed, with the first being plunging breaking and the second being spilling breaking. The extreme wave kinematics were enhanced by the increased spreading. The maximum velocity to deep water celerity ratio of unity seemed to be the upper limit for spilling breakers and the lower limit for the plungers. The maximum velocity did not, in general, appear at the crest. The limiting crest velocity was found to be the value of the deep water celerity, which is in line with the observation of Griffiths (1989).

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Three-Dimensional Breaking Wave Kinematics

She, K. / Greated, C. A. / Easson, W. J.

Abstract An investigation into three-dimensional waves has been carried out using Particle image velocimetry. The wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {−α, α}. The waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. Several α values between 30 and 60 degrees were tested. Angular spreading was found to have great effects on the breaking characteristics and kinematics. Two types of breakers were observed, with the first being plunging breaking and the second being spilling breaking. The extreme wave kinematics were enhanced by the increased spreading. The maximum velocity to deep water celerity ratio of unity seemed to be the upper limit for spilling breakers and the lower limit for the plungers. The maximum velocity did not, in general, appear at the crest. The limiting crest velocity was found to be the value of the deep water celerity, which is in line with the observation of Griffiths (1989).

Three-Dimensional Breaking Wave Kinematics

She, K. / Greated, C. A. / Easson, W. J.

Abstract An investigation into three-dimensional waves has been carried out using Particle image velocimetry. The wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {−α, α}. The waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. Several α values between 30 and 60 degrees were tested. Angular spreading was found to have great effects on the breaking characteristics and kinematics. Two types of breakers were observed, with the first being plunging breaking and the second being spilling breaking. The extreme wave kinematics were enhanced by the increased spreading. The maximum velocity to deep water celerity ratio of unity seemed to be the upper limit for spilling breakers and the lower limit for the plungers. The maximum velocity did not, in general, appear at the crest. The limiting crest velocity was found to be the value of the deep water celerity, which is in line with the observation of Griffiths (1989).

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Title:

Three-Dimensional Breaking Wave Kinematics

Contributors:

She, K. (author) / Greated, C. A. (author) / Easson, W. J. (author)

Published in:

Wave Kinematics and Environmental Forces ; 275-287

Advances in Underwater Technology, Ocean Science and Offshore Engineering ; 29

Publication date:

1993-01-01

Size:

13 pages

ISBN:

978-94-017-3663-3 , 978-90-481-4250-7

ISSN:

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-017-3663-3_14

Type of media:

Article/Chapter (Book)

Type of material:

Electronic Resource

Language:

English

Keywords:

Particle Image Velocimetry , Wave Height , Breaking Wave , Laser Sheet , Angular Spreading Engineering , Offshore Engineering , Vibration, Dynamical Systems, Control , Mathematical Modeling and Industrial Mathematics

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