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Computation of Nonlinear Wave Kinematics During Propagation and Runup on a Slope
Abstract An efficient Boundary Element Method (BEM) solving fully nonlinear waterwave problems in the physical space has been developed in our earlier papers. Its detailed numerical features have been presented elsewhere. In the present paper, this method is applied to the computation of the interaction between highly nonlinear solitary waves and plane steep and gentle slopes. Kinematics of the waves is calculated during propagation and runup on a slope. In particular, the internal velocity field above the slope and the pressure force on the slope are computed in detail during runup and rundown of the wave. The results show features of the wave flow such as jet-like up-rush, stagnation point and breaking during backwash. A comparison is made with accurate experimental results (runup, surface elevations), with orther fully nonlinear solutions, and also with the predictions of the Shallow Water Wave Equation. The results show that the BEM used here is capable of accurately describing the wave flow and interaction with a plane slope(2.88° to 90°), in great detail.
Computation of Nonlinear Wave Kinematics During Propagation and Runup on a Slope
Abstract An efficient Boundary Element Method (BEM) solving fully nonlinear waterwave problems in the physical space has been developed in our earlier papers. Its detailed numerical features have been presented elsewhere. In the present paper, this method is applied to the computation of the interaction between highly nonlinear solitary waves and plane steep and gentle slopes. Kinematics of the waves is calculated during propagation and runup on a slope. In particular, the internal velocity field above the slope and the pressure force on the slope are computed in detail during runup and rundown of the wave. The results show features of the wave flow such as jet-like up-rush, stagnation point and breaking during backwash. A comparison is made with accurate experimental results (runup, surface elevations), with orther fully nonlinear solutions, and also with the predictions of the Shallow Water Wave Equation. The results show that the BEM used here is capable of accurately describing the wave flow and interaction with a plane slope(2.88° to 90°), in great detail.
Computation of Nonlinear Wave Kinematics During Propagation and Runup on a Slope
Grilli, S. (author) / Svendsen, I. A. (author)
1990-01-01
26 pages
Article/Chapter (Book)
Electronic Resource
English
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