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Wave Theory Predictions of Crest Kinematics

Sobey, Rodney J.

Abstract In much of the practice of coastal and ocean engineering, the question of which wave theory to use has been largely of academic interest. Consideration of shallow water and/or higher order wave theories has been complicated by the relative inaccessibility of these theories. The literature is extensive and frequently confusing, which has often led to the adoption of linear wave theory, whether or not it is appropriate. In much of the practical parameter range, mathematical predictions for steady, progressive waves are available from a range of orders from Stokes, Cnoidal and Fourier theories. The differences are often considerable.

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Wave Theory Predictions of Crest Kinematics

Sobey, Rodney J.

Abstract In much of the practice of coastal and ocean engineering, the question of which wave theory to use has been largely of academic interest. Consideration of shallow water and/or higher order wave theories has been complicated by the relative inaccessibility of these theories. The literature is extensive and frequently confusing, which has often led to the adoption of linear wave theory, whether or not it is appropriate. In much of the practical parameter range, mathematical predictions for steady, progressive waves are available from a range of orders from Stokes, Cnoidal and Fourier theories. The differences are often considerable.

Wave Theory Predictions of Crest Kinematics

Sobey, Rodney J.

Abstract In much of the practice of coastal and ocean engineering, the question of which wave theory to use has been largely of academic interest. Consideration of shallow water and/or higher order wave theories has been complicated by the relative inaccessibility of these theories. The literature is extensive and frequently confusing, which has often led to the adoption of linear wave theory, whether or not it is appropriate. In much of the practical parameter range, mathematical predictions for steady, progressive waves are available from a range of orders from Stokes, Cnoidal and Fourier theories. The differences are often considerable.

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Title:

Wave Theory Predictions of Crest Kinematics

Contributors:

Sobey, Rodney J. (author)

Published in:

Water Wave Kinematics ; 215-231

NATO ASI Series ; 178

Publication date:

1990-01-01

Size:

17 pages

ISBN:

978-94-010-6725-6 , 978-94-009-0531-3

ISSN:

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_13

Type of media:

Article/Chapter (Book)

Type of material:

Electronic Resource

Language:

English

Keywords:

Wave Theory , Irregular Wave , Cnoidal Wave , Free Surface Boundary Condition , Bottom Boundary Condition Engineering , Offshore Engineering , Mechanics

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