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3.7 Summary Chapters 2 and 3 together present the characteristics and analysis of changes in the characteristics as a wave propagates from deep water into the point of breaking and runup on a slope. This is done only for the two-dimensional (x, z) plane as waves propagate along a nearshore profile. For a complete analysis of wave propagation to the shore the three-dimensional effects of wave refraction, diffraction, and reflection must also be considered.
3.7 Summary Chapters 2 and 3 together present the characteristics and analysis of changes in the characteristics as a wave propagates from deep water into the point of breaking and runup on a slope. This is done only for the two-dimensional (x, z) plane as waves propagate along a nearshore profile. For a complete analysis of wave propagation to the shore the three-dimensional effects of wave refraction, diffraction, and reflection must also be considered.
Finite-Amplitude Waves
Sorensen, Robert M. (author)
Basic Coastal Engineering ; 53-77
Third Edition
2006-01-01
25 pages
Article/Chapter (Book)
Electronic Resource
English
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