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Modelling the typhoon-induced morphodynamics of a nourished gravel coast
Gravel nourishment has recently started to be employed as a countermeasure against severe coastal erosion in Japan. Numerical simulations of the short-term morphological changes of nourished gravel coasts due to typhoons are necessary to plan gravel nourishment and explain it to local stakeholders. In the present work, the authors improved the original XBeach model to include the computation of two-dimensional horizontal gravel transport. In the original XBeach model, sediment transport is calculated through the advection-diffusion equation. However, gravel transport is not governed by suspended load but rather by bed load. Therefore, in this study, the two-dimensional horizontal gravel bed load transport was calculated using the bed shear stress and defining the direction of bed load transport as the mean wave angle. This method was verified by analyzing the morphological changes that took place along the Akiya coast in Japan during passage of Typhoon Phanfone (2014), comparing the survey records of the beach before and after the event. Generally speaking, the accretion patterns and the movements of the contour lines could be reproduced well, with the exception of a small area along the northwest tip of the coastline. The authors also discussed reasons why these differences between the model and the observations take place.
Modelling the typhoon-induced morphodynamics of a nourished gravel coast
Gravel nourishment has recently started to be employed as a countermeasure against severe coastal erosion in Japan. Numerical simulations of the short-term morphological changes of nourished gravel coasts due to typhoons are necessary to plan gravel nourishment and explain it to local stakeholders. In the present work, the authors improved the original XBeach model to include the computation of two-dimensional horizontal gravel transport. In the original XBeach model, sediment transport is calculated through the advection-diffusion equation. However, gravel transport is not governed by suspended load but rather by bed load. Therefore, in this study, the two-dimensional horizontal gravel bed load transport was calculated using the bed shear stress and defining the direction of bed load transport as the mean wave angle. This method was verified by analyzing the morphological changes that took place along the Akiya coast in Japan during passage of Typhoon Phanfone (2014), comparing the survey records of the beach before and after the event. Generally speaking, the accretion patterns and the movements of the contour lines could be reproduced well, with the exception of a small area along the northwest tip of the coastline. The authors also discussed reasons why these differences between the model and the observations take place.
Modelling the typhoon-induced morphodynamics of a nourished gravel coast
Nishida, Yuta (author) / Shibayama, Tomoya (author) / Mikami, Takahito (author) / Esteban, Miguel (author)
Coastal Engineering Journal ; 67 ; 162-180
2025-01-02
19 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
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