Eine Plattform für die Wissenschaft: Bauingenieurwesen, Architektur und Urbanistik
Eine Plattform für die Wissenschaft: Bauingenieurwesen, Architektur und Urbanistik
Randomly breaking waves and surf-zone dynamics
Abstract A model is developed to describe the properties of randomly breaking waves on a gentle slope with straight shore-parallel bottom contours. A shallow-water approximation is used to determine the characteristics of waves and currents. The model is applied to investigate the momentum balance in the surf zone. Wave set-up and longshore current velocity profiles are derived, and changes in wave orbital velocities near the bed are analyzed. Longshore sediment transport rates are determined using Bagnold's concept. The contributions of bed-load and suspended-load in the total sediment flux are estimated. Two types of surf zone are considered, characterized either by monotonous depth decreasing toward the shore or by the presence of a trough and bar.
Randomly breaking waves and surf-zone dynamics
Abstract A model is developed to describe the properties of randomly breaking waves on a gentle slope with straight shore-parallel bottom contours. A shallow-water approximation is used to determine the characteristics of waves and currents. The model is applied to investigate the momentum balance in the surf zone. Wave set-up and longshore current velocity profiles are derived, and changes in wave orbital velocities near the bed are analyzed. Longshore sediment transport rates are determined using Bagnold's concept. The contributions of bed-load and suspended-load in the total sediment flux are estimated. Two types of surf zone are considered, characterized either by monotonous depth decreasing toward the shore or by the presence of a trough and bar.
Randomly breaking waves and surf-zone dynamics
Leont'ev, Igor O. (Autor:in)
Coastal Engineering ; 12 ; 83-103
27.07.1987
21 pages
Aufsatz (Zeitschrift)
Elektronische Ressource
Englisch
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