A platform for research: civil engineering, architecture and urbanism
A platform for research: civil engineering, architecture and urbanism
Randomly breaking waves and surf-zone dynamics
Abstract A model is developed to describe the properties of randomly breaking waves on a gentle slope with straight shore-parallel bottom contours. A shallow-water approximation is used to determine the characteristics of waves and currents. The model is applied to investigate the momentum balance in the surf zone. Wave set-up and longshore current velocity profiles are derived, and changes in wave orbital velocities near the bed are analyzed. Longshore sediment transport rates are determined using Bagnold's concept. The contributions of bed-load and suspended-load in the total sediment flux are estimated. Two types of surf zone are considered, characterized either by monotonous depth decreasing toward the shore or by the presence of a trough and bar.
Randomly breaking waves and surf-zone dynamics
Abstract A model is developed to describe the properties of randomly breaking waves on a gentle slope with straight shore-parallel bottom contours. A shallow-water approximation is used to determine the characteristics of waves and currents. The model is applied to investigate the momentum balance in the surf zone. Wave set-up and longshore current velocity profiles are derived, and changes in wave orbital velocities near the bed are analyzed. Longshore sediment transport rates are determined using Bagnold's concept. The contributions of bed-load and suspended-load in the total sediment flux are estimated. Two types of surf zone are considered, characterized either by monotonous depth decreasing toward the shore or by the presence of a trough and bar.
Randomly breaking waves and surf-zone dynamics
Leont'ev, Igor O. (author)
Coastal Engineering ; 12 ; 83-103
1987-07-27
21 pages
Article (Journal)
Electronic Resource
English
Air Bubble Characteristics of Surf Zone Breaking Waves
| British Library Conference Proceedings | 2009
Spectral Evolution of Breaking - Non Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone
| British Library Conference Proceedings | 2005
Extracting Turbulence under Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone
| British Library Online Contents | 2015
Extracting turbulence under breaking waves in the surf zone
| Online Contents | 2015