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The study involves three classes of beaches: primary beaches on the island of Oahu; beaches on Oahu protected by headlands and/or subject to strong seasonal variation; and beaches on the neighbor islands with special characteristics, e.g., cusps or natural offshore formations. This report presents the data collected during field studies, such as recordings of wave heights and periods, tides, current velocities and directions, beach profiles, and sand movements. Aerial and ground-level photographs from known elevations provided overall dimensional and descriptive data for the beaches. Field studies at Waikiki Beach represented a large portion of the total study effort which found the major cause of erosion to be a relatively strong rip current generated by southern swells. Waimea Bay Beach and Makaha Beach on the island of Oahu were other areas of study where it was found that heavy storms from the northwest during the winter months give rise to dynamic changes of these exposed beaches. Other aspects of this report include dynamic beach behavior and stability of headland beaches. Of particular interest was the role that natural formations play in shoreline protection.
The study involves three classes of beaches: primary beaches on the island of Oahu; beaches on Oahu protected by headlands and/or subject to strong seasonal variation; and beaches on the neighbor islands with special characteristics, e.g., cusps or natural offshore formations. This report presents the data collected during field studies, such as recordings of wave heights and periods, tides, current velocities and directions, beach profiles, and sand movements. Aerial and ground-level photographs from known elevations provided overall dimensional and descriptive data for the beaches. Field studies at Waikiki Beach represented a large portion of the total study effort which found the major cause of erosion to be a relatively strong rip current generated by southern swells. Waimea Bay Beach and Makaha Beach on the island of Oahu were other areas of study where it was found that heavy storms from the northwest during the winter months give rise to dynamic changes of these exposed beaches. Other aspects of this report include dynamic beach behavior and stability of headland beaches. Of particular interest was the role that natural formations play in shoreline protection.
Beach and Surf Parameters in Hawaii
F. Gerritsen (Autor:in)
1978
192 pages
Report
Keine Angabe
Englisch
Dynamic Oceanography , Civil Engineering , Beaches , Beach nourishment , Beach erosion , Oahu Island , Shore protection , Ocean waves , Seasonal variations , Profiles , Sands , Ocean tides , Field tests , Waikiki Beach , Storms , Waimea Bay Beach , Makaha Beach , Exposure , Winter , Hawaii , Sea Grant program , Rip currents
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