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Study is related to sand movements along beaches with spilling and breaking characteristics of waves; plunging, breaking and formation and propagation of bores are studied on basis of J.J.Stoker's method of characteristics; theorem of momentum is used in study of longshore currents; dimensionless charts are obtained for determining speed of flow in function of geometric and hydraulic characteristics of beaches; littoral drift is studied on basis of longshore current and waves proper; simplified formula is suggested for calculating littoral drift. (In Portuguese with English abstract)
Study is related to sand movements along beaches with spilling and breaking characteristics of waves; plunging, breaking and formation and propagation of bores are studied on basis of J.J.Stoker's method of characteristics; theorem of momentum is used in study of longshore currents; dimensionless charts are obtained for determining speed of flow in function of geometric and hydraulic characteristics of beaches; littoral drift is studied on basis of longshore current and waves proper; simplified formula is suggested for calculating littoral drift. (In Portuguese with English abstract)
Breaking waves and littoral drift
Rebentacao das ondas e transporte litoral
Castanho, J. (author)
1966
278 pages
Article (Journal)
Portuguese
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