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Surf zone transformation of wave height to water depth ratios

Nelson, R.C. / Gonsalves, J.

AbstractA solid body of data exists on which to base engineering decisions regarding the maximum wave heights that can be achieved in shallow water at the point of incipient breaking. Effort is now being directed towards the study of how wave height varies as waves propagate through the surf zone and what parameters control this process. Early surf zone models assumed a constant value of C while later models incorporate a decay function for $H h$ due to turbulence in the breaking wave. A few more recent studies have recognised a second process by which $H h$ can decay through the surf zone where there is a strong underlying infragravity wave motion. The work presented here investigates the characteristics of this latter decay process on a natural exposed dissipative beach, including its magnitude and dual dependence on local mean water depth and distance from the breaker line. Some comparisons are then made with the decay characteristics of the former process.

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Surf zone transformation of wave height to water depth ratios

Nelson, R.C. / Gonsalves, J.

AbstractA solid body of data exists on which to base engineering decisions regarding the maximum wave heights that can be achieved in shallow water at the point of incipient breaking. Effort is now being directed towards the study of how wave height varies as waves propagate through the surf zone and what parameters control this process. Early surf zone models assumed a constant value of C while later models incorporate a decay function for $H h$ due to turbulence in the breaking wave. A few more recent studies have recognised a second process by which $H h$ can decay through the surf zone where there is a strong underlying infragravity wave motion. The work presented here investigates the characteristics of this latter decay process on a natural exposed dissipative beach, including its magnitude and dual dependence on local mean water depth and distance from the breaker line. Some comparisons are then made with the decay characteristics of the former process.

Surf zone transformation of wave height to water depth ratios

Nelson, R.C. / Gonsalves, J.

AbstractA solid body of data exists on which to base engineering decisions regarding the maximum wave heights that can be achieved in shallow water at the point of incipient breaking. Effort is now being directed towards the study of how wave height varies as waves propagate through the surf zone and what parameters control this process. Early surf zone models assumed a constant value of C while later models incorporate a decay function for $H h$ due to turbulence in the breaking wave. A few more recent studies have recognised a second process by which $H h$ can decay through the surf zone where there is a strong underlying infragravity wave motion. The work presented here investigates the characteristics of this latter decay process on a natural exposed dissipative beach, including its magnitude and dual dependence on local mean water depth and distance from the breaker line. Some comparisons are then made with the decay characteristics of the former process.

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Title:

Surf zone transformation of wave height to water depth ratios

Contributors:

Nelson, R.C. (author) / Gonsalves, J. (author)

Published in:

Coastal Engineering ; 17 ; 49-70

Publication date:

1991-09-27

Size:

22 pages

ISSN:

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(92)90013-K

Type of media:

Article (Journal)

Type of material:

Electronic Resource

Language:

English

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